In central Sardinia, in the historic territory of Guilcer, lies a small town called Zuri. Zuri is so tiny that it doesn’t even have enough people to form its own municipality and for its administration, the neighboring town of Ghilarza is in charge.
However, far from being just a cluster of houses, Zuri is home to the ancient San Pietro Church considered one of the most important examples of medieval sacred architecture on the island.
Even though a very old church, thanks to an inscription carved in the façade, we know who commissioned its construction and the architect who built it.
If you are exploring central Sardinia, make sure you take a detour to stop in Zuri and visit this little gem.
San Pietro Church in Zuri, a medieval hidden gem
It’s not difficult to reach but not visible from the main road either. Your visit to the fascinating Church of San Pietro in Zuri needs to be planned, but I suggest doing it because you won’t regret it.
San Pietro of Zuri is a small hidden gem in central Sardinia with a stormy past.
It was erected in 1291 and commissioned to architect Anselmo da Como by the noble abbess Sardigna de Lacon who was probably a widow who became a nun after the death of her husband, likely related to the ruling family in Arborea.
In the precious inscription that much reveals the origins of this church, Sardigna de Lacon is referred to as “operaia“, Italian for “worker” but likely meaning the one playing the role of collecting and managing the funds to complete the work.
Originally, the very first construction of this church is even older and dates back to the 12th century when it was built to serve as a chapel for a female Benedictine abbey. In the 13th century, thanks to the wealthy abbess Sardigna de Lacon, it was heavily renovated, but the works didn’t stop there.
More interventions took place in the 14th century with some Gothic-style additions, in 1504 after an internal collapse, and in the 19th century, before being fully transferred in the early 20th century.
As soon as you enter Zuri, the red-ochre hues typical of the lava rock will immediately capture your attention. The church is quite small and features only one nave. One of its most precious elements is the beautiful bell tower that seems leaning on the only nave.
The secret of Zuri’s San Pietro Church
Back in the 13th century, the San Pietro church wasn’t erected where we can see it today. In fact, the old Zuri town was located where now is the Omodeo Lake, the largest and most important artificial basin in Sardinia made in 1924 with the building of a dam along the Tirso River.
The ancient church and the newest houses of the old town of Zuri were dismantled and rebuilt brick by brick, each numbered and replaced in the exact location. It all happened in 28 days.
The oldest buildings were left there and lie now under the water. This makes it a fascinating sight shrouded in mystery during drought because they reappear giving the idea of a ghost town.
Why visit San Pietro Church of Zuri – 8 reasons
Zuri is probably the smallest town you will ever see, so why is it worth visiting its only church? Here are a few reasons.
- It’s one of Sardinia’s most important examples of medieval Romanesque-style churches.
- It’s a quiet spiritual place for your prayers
- There are more landmarks in Zuri and the surroundings
- It’s easy to reach from the main highway
- From there, you can enjoy a beautiful lake view
- You can visit several other towns near Zuri such as Ghilarza and Sedilo
- There are many archaeological sites nearby such as Nuraghe Losa in Abbasanta, Iloi Archaeological Park in Sedilo, and Pozzo Sacro di Santa Cristina in Paulilatino
- You can find many great restaurants nearby such as Loddo Ristorante Pizzeria in Soddì, Valparaiso in Ghilarza, and Cantinedda in Ulà Tirso near the Omodeo Lake.
How to get to Zuri
From Cagliari – Take the E25/SS131 towards Sassari and Nuoro, take the SS128 exit, SP33 to E25 and follow the signs to SP15-Ghilarza. Link to Google Maps.
From Olbia – Take SS127 to SS131 and follow for 139 km up to the exit to Ghilarza and follow the signs to SP28 to Zuri. Link to Google Maps.
Where to stay near Zuri
If you are visiting Sardinia in the low and shoulder season, this area is very convenient to book your accommodation in because it’s central and well-connected to all the other areas and regions. Here are some options for hotels and B&Bs around Zuri.
- B&B S’Arenada – Ghilarza
- Perdanoa ApartHotel – Ghilarza
- Bitulera B&B – Ghilarza
- Sa Prenda e Oro – Ulà Tirso
- Sa Tanchitta – Ulà Tirso
- Binzas betzas Agriturismo – Sedilo
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