Discover the Wonderful Town of Nuoro, Sardinia’s “Athens”

Angela Corrias in Tharros Sardinia

Angela Corrias

Even though a provincial capital, Nuoro is more of a town than a city. It’s also the capital of a very popular province that includes natural wonders such as the Gulf of Orosei, Cala Mariolu Beach, and Su Gorropu Canyon, but also towns such as Mamoiada famous for its Carnival and Orgosolo for its murals. But even though, Nuoro itself doesn’t attract nearly as many tourists as its coastline.

If you ask me, wrongly so because Nuoro is a great town, loaded with culture, home to a rich culture, boasting a long history, and offering fantastic food. Have I tickled your curiosity? If so, keep reading to discover the best things to see and do in Nuoro, central Sardinia, and why it will make a fascinating addition to your itinerary.

Image: Nuoro Sardinia's Athens

Why Sardinia’s “Athens”

Nuoro has been wearing the moniker of Sardinia’s Athens for a long time. In the early 20th century, when the whole island had a high illiteracy rate, Nuoro boasted a very lively cultural vibe with the presence of several artists and intellectuals.

Among these is the famous Grazia Deledda, a novelist and writer from Nuoro who penned many books and won the Nobel Literature Prize. She’s not alone in the rostrum of intellectuals.

Other famous names include poet and writer Sebastiano Satta, sculptor Francesco Ciusa, painter and writer Antonio Ballero, and painter Antonio Pirari.

What to see and do in Nuoro

Visit Nuoro’s Ethnographic Museum

Known also as “Museo del Costume”, this is a fantastic anthropological museum covering the traditions, local life, culture, and history of the whole island of Sardinia.

I spent hours inside this museum and loved every single section. From the myriad of Sardinian types of bread to the traditional costumes to the construction styles and the different works and tools used on the island throughout the centuries, Nuoro’s ethnographic museum offers a wonderful experience.

Even though I am from Sardinia, I learned so much about my region that I will certainly go back and keep exploring our culture and history.

  • Where: Via Antonio Mereu 56.
  • When: Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-1 pm and 3-8 pm. Closed on Monday.
  • How much: 5€.
Image: Ethnographic museum in Nuoro.

Explore the National Archaeological Museum

Nuoro’s Museo Archeologico “Giorgio Asproni” has been named after the important local politician and is a great addition to your bucket list. It’s located in a neoclassical building the historic center at the foot of the Ortobene Mount.

It hosts a rich collection of archaeological relics found across the entire province. This makes it pivotal to understanding the history of the Barbagia and Ogliastra territories from the Paleolithic through the Middle Ages.

  • Where: Via Mannu 1.
  • When: Tuesday to Saturday 9 am-3.30 pm. Closed on Sunday and Monday.
  • How much: 4€.
Image: House of Grazia Deledda one of the places to visit in Nuoro.

Visit the house of writer Grazia Deledda

The first Italian woman to ever win the Literature Nobel Prize and the second Italian writer overall after Giosuè Carducci, Grazia Deledda was born and grew up in Nuoro between the 19th and the 20th centuries. Visiting her house will throw you back to a time when it was difficult for women to study and where Grazia Deledda fought her way into becoming a world-famous novelist.

I read many of her novels and loved each and every one of them. Her stories are heavily inspired by her hometown and Sardinia and reflect the old traditions and way of living across the island. In her house, you will see a typical home of a wealthy family, with an internal courtyard, some of her clothes, and some of her original handwriting.

  • Where: Via Grazia Deledda 42.
  • When: Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-1 pm and 3-7 pm. Closed on Monday.
  • How much: 5€.

See the MAN – Provincial Art Museum

This is a very important museum in Nuoro and all of Sardinia because it’s devoted to the promotion and conservation of modern and contemporary art.

Beautifully set in a 1920s building in the city center, apart from their permanent exhibition, the MAN always works on temporary exhibitions to promote the work of artists between the 19th and 21st centuries.

  • Where: Via Sebastiano Satta 27.
  • When: Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-7 pm. Closed on Monday.
  • How much: 5€.
  • Website.
Image: Visiting the Ethnographic museum one of the things to do in Nuoro, Sardinia.

Duck into Santa Maria della Neve Cathedral

This is the main church in Nuoro and even though not too old, its construction started in 1835. Both the interior and exterior look very modern and quite simple.

With a pastel-colored facade, two twin bell towers, and four monumental pillars, the imposing building dominates the view of the large piazza.

Between the end of July and the beginning of August, there are many celebrations around the church because August 5th is the popular festival in honor of Santa Maria della Neve.

  • Where: Piazza Santa Maria della Neve.

Visit Madonna delle Grazie church

This is a much smaller church than the cathedral but also much older. The Latin inscription carved in the facade reads 1670 and the consecration of the building to the Holy Mary.

Since 1812, every 21st of November, the residents of Nuoro celebrate the festival of the Madonna delle Grazie to commemorate the end of the plague. In the 17th century, in fact, a shepherd found a wooden statue of the Virgin Mary and the population conferred it the miracle of ending the deadly disease.

The building shows elements from different eras and architectural styles including neoclassic and late-Gothic features.

  • Where: Via Alberto Lamarmora 1.

See Mount Ortobene

Mount Ortobene is Nuoro’s mountain, “heart and soul” as Grazia Deledda worded it. At a height of almost 1000 meters and an area covering some 1600 hectares, the Ortobene Mount has been inhabited since prehistoric times and shows a rich variety of plants and local wildlife.

This stunning mountain offers great walking and hiking routes, a wide variety of landscapes such as valleys, peaks, river views, parks, places to enjoy your picnic, and scenic rock formations with shapes of animals and humans.

Image: Sardinian traditional costumes at museo del costume in Nuoro, Sardinia.

Join Festa del Redentore

Every year, at the end of August, there is one of Sardinia’s most important festivals known as Festa del Redentore because a large religious parade takes place from the city to the giant Christ statue on the Ortobene Mount.

On the same occasion, traditional costumes from the towns of all Sardinia parade across the streets of Nuoro.

Take a day trip

If you have booked your hotel in Nuoro, you will be close to many attractions and destinations in the wonderful surroundings, which are the Ogliastra and Barbagia regions, known for being the Blue Zone areas in Sardinia.

Some nearby towns I always suggest visiting if it’s your first time in the area include Orgosolo, famous for their street art, and Mamoiada, especially in January on the occasion of Saint Anthony and Carnival, the two festivals that see the Mamuthones parading across the streets.

But that’s not all because, from Nuoro, you can organize a lovely hike in the Gorropu canyon or, in summer, a day out on one of the beaches of the Gulf of Orosei and even a boat tour from Cala Gonone, the beach resort of Dorgali.

Here are some boat tours to book in the Gulf of Orosei:

Image: Types of Sardinian bread in Nuoro's Museo del Costume.

Where to eat in Nuoro

There is no lack of restaurants in Nuoro:

  • Rustico, Viale della Costituzione 71/73
  • PianoB, Via XX Settembre 14
  • Il Rifugio, Via Antonio Mereu 28
  • Ristorante Il Portico, Via Monsignor Giovanni Bua 13
  • Panelentu take away & Street food of Sardinia, Via delle Grazie 20

Where to stay in Nuoro

Nuoro is a larger town compared to the villages around so there is a wider array of accommodation options. Here are some options for different types and budgets:

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Image: Taking the ferry to Sardinia from Civitavecchia Rome

About The Author: Angela Corrias

Hi, my name is Angela Corrias. I am an Italian journalist and travel writer born and bred in Sardinia, an island off the coast of Italy. After having traveled around the world and having lived overseas for more than a decade, I decided it was time to go back home to Italy and show the beauty of my country to the world. Follow me as I show you the best of Sardinia - from its crystal clear waters and pristine beaches to its delicious food and wine, to its fascinating history and culture.

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